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Chainsaw recommendations


dpberr

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I have a big project that includes a fair number of trees to cut down.  For years, I've managed to get by with renting Stihl chainsaws (usually a 250) from a local dealer for a tree here and there but I think I'm at the point where it's time to purchase.  

 

Anyone that cuts firewood or trees on the regular have a recommendation?  I don't want a cheap saw but I don't know if a pro saw is worth the investment over a high end "homeowner" saw. 

 

I've been looking at Stihl, Husqvarna and Echos, at least 50cc.  Most of the trees I'm cutting are tops 10 to 12" wide. They aren't really big trees, but a fair amount of them. 

 

I appreciate any advice on the saws.  

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14 minutes ago, dpberr said:

I have a big project that includes a fair number of trees to cut down.  For years, I've managed to get by with renting Stihl chainsaws (usually a 250) from a local dealer for a tree here and there but I think I'm at the point where it's time to purchase.  

 

Anyone that cuts firewood or trees on the regular have a recommendation?  I don't want a cheap saw but I don't know if a pro saw is worth the investment over a high end "homeowner" saw. 

 

I've been looking at Stihl, Husqvarna and Echos, at least 50cc.  Most of the trees I'm cutting are tops 10 to 12" wide. They aren't really big trees, but a fair amount of them. 

 

I appreciate any advice on the saws.  

  I've owned a Stihl 025 for over 20 years.  Yes, that model is no longer made but it is in between a homeowner saw and a professional logger saw.  It has held up very well and does not wear down a person not used to cutting wood by the cord.  If I were looking today on that basis I would look for another Stihl.  What little I hear is none of the saw brands are on the level that they were a generation ago in terms of durability and life expectancy.  Stihl around me is supported by the John Deere dealer so I can go to a place that has regular hours and has a basic parts supply.  Mom and pop dealers that carried everything are just about gone and when they were more prevalent they often had irregular hours and some were not the best in terms of parts stock.  I would be interested in what others have to say.

Edited by RochesterRob
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Stihl have always been designed that replacement parts will always be available, even if adapters are required (engineered and built by Stihl).  We have three, a large and two small ‘limbers’ my son favoured for climbing. Before I had Stihl, I had two perfectly good Homelites that were rendered unserviceable by “you can’t get the parts anymore!”

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11 minutes ago, Augie said:

 

I’m not sure if @mead107 should see that! Do you think his heart can take it? Or his keyboard after cranking out his display of true love?

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2 hours ago, Joe in Winslow said:

We have a Stihl. I've cut I think 8 trees down/apart with it, including some over 10'. Only beef is the first time you try and fire it up in a year, it can be a real B word.

 

Stabil ans E0 is your friend.

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4 hours ago, Joe in Winslow said:

We have a Stihl. I've cut I think 8 trees down/apart with it, including some over 10'. Only beef is the first time you try and fire it up in a year, it can be a real B word.

 

WWSDD

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What would San Diego do?  I'm sure she knows her way around a chainsaw.

Edited by 4merper4mer
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6 minutes ago, 4merper4mer said:

WWSDD

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What would San Diego do?  I'm sure she knows her way around a chainsaw.

 

Those people are Stihl. :P

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks everyone for your replies both on point and off.  ?

 

Decided to go with Stihl - a pro saw MS261.  I managed to shop at a Husqvarna store before the governor shut the state down to make a more educated decision.  

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Since you've managed to get away w/ only renting one in the past, if you think your future use will be similar, I'd highly recommend you get a good, electric saw (assuming you don't consider that an oxymoron ;) )

I have an 80v Earthworks. If you can get away w/ one battery, they're roughly equivalent of a gas powered saw of equivalent price (~$300), ie good homeowner or low end rancher's saw).

My main complaint of my old gas saw was that more often than not, I spent more time & effort getting the dang thing started then it would've taken doing the task w/ a handsaw.

W/ electric, you just make sure the battery is charged & voila, cutting away.

The one downside is it's only good for about 11 minutes of HARD cutting.  That equates to about 1 hour of work doing moderate cutting.  But if you're felling & cutting up maybe a tree every yr or so, I think it's the way to go.

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1 hour ago, eSJayDee said:

Since you've managed to get away w/ only renting one in the past, if you think your future use will be similar, I'd highly recommend you get a good, electric saw (assuming you don't consider that an oxymoron ;) )

I have an 80v Earthworks. If you can get away w/ one battery, they're roughly equivalent of a gas powered saw of equivalent price (~$300), ie good homeowner or low end rancher's saw).

My main complaint of my old gas saw was that more often than not, I spent more time & effort getting the dang thing started then it would've taken doing the task w/ a handsaw.

W/ electric, you just make sure the battery is charged & voila, cutting away.

The one downside is it's only good for about 11 minutes of HARD cutting.  That equates to about 1 hour of work doing moderate cutting.  But if you're felling & cutting up maybe a tree every yr or so, I think it's the way to go.

I have similar experiences with finicky gas saws.   I only cut trees that are at most 6 inches in diameter.  If they’re bigger than that I pay a guy whose prices are very reasonable.   I got an electric one with a cord dirt cheap.   It’s fine for my purposes. 

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 3/23/2020 at 4:33 PM, eSJayDee said:

Since you've managed to get away w/ only renting one in the past, if you think your future use will be similar, I'd highly recommend you get a good, electric saw (assuming you don't consider that an oxymoron ;) )

I have an 80v Earthworks. If you can get away w/ one battery, they're roughly equivalent of a gas powered saw of equivalent price (~$300), ie good homeowner or low end rancher's saw).

My main complaint of my old gas saw was that more often than not, I spent more time & effort getting the dang thing started then it would've taken doing the task w/ a handsaw.

W/ electric, you just make sure the battery is charged & voila, cutting away.

The one downside is it's only good for about 11 minutes of HARD cutting.  That equates to about 1 hour of work doing moderate cutting.  But if you're felling & cutting up maybe a tree every yr or so, I think it's the way to go.

Yeah, I finally bought an electric this year for the exact same reasons; too much time fussin and not enough time cuttin.

I went with an Echo 58V with a 16" bar and have been very happy so far. Bucking trees that are 20"+ is no problem and it gives me close to an hour of work before I have to pull the battery for a recharge, which is just enough at this age.

I'd definitely recommend the saw for any prospective buyers.

 

An example of why I switched?

Watch me start getting pissed off and about snap the pullcord when the saw won't start. :lol:

 

 

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One thing I did not know about electric vs. gas chainsaws:

 

The PPE chainsaw chaps are useless against electric chainsaws.  Apparently, they will just keep moving right through the protective layers of the chaps, whereas the gas saws will get bound up by the threads by design.

 

 

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The PPE chainsaw chaps are useless against electric chainsaws.  Apparently, they will just keep moving right through the protective layers of the chaps, whereas the gas saws will get bound up by the threads by design.

 

I find that somewhat surprising.  I haven't tested them on either (I don't wear them), but my electric saw shuts off when it's overloaded.  What it takes to shut it down, varies w/ battery power (it shuts down much easier when the battery is almost dead as opposed to fully charged).  So, the principle is the same, provide extra resistance, engine dies.  Granted, it's a built-in safety feature, but I imagine they included it for this very reason instead of just conserving battery power when highly labored.

Edited by eSJayDee
Thought of additional point.
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