Richmond_Bills Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 Hey guys, I'm sure this has been covered before, but I don't think I've seen it recently: Need a new (to me) vehicle. Was really hoping to wait until my other vehicle was paid off (about 20 months). Really would like to keep my payment as low as possible, therefore was thinking either going used or leasing as I always see "incredible" deals in the Sunday newspaper. Discuss.... Looked at Toyota RAV4's but thinking that will be out of my league price-wise. Also interested in the Nissan Rogue and Hyundai Tucson. Discuss.... Thanks in advance! RB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drinkTHEkoolaid Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 (edited) I prefer to buy. As a thought check some credit unions they might be able to get you a really low rate like 1.75-2.99 and maybe extend the loan to 66 months to keep your monthly payment lower. That way if you can secure your own financing it will allow you to take the rebate as the dealers incentive AND still get a good financing rate. I got a rate from credit union last year for either 1.75% or 1.99% I don't remember. And it worked out good for me. It was significantly lower than the financing the dealership was offering so over the course of the loan its quite a savings. Edited November 12, 2013 by drinkTHEkoolaid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Jack Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 I'm leasing a 2012 RAV4 myself. Just be aware when leasing of the mileage per year. You can "purchase" more mileage as part of your lease, I've got 18,000 per year instead of the standard 12,000/year. The price per month via lease for the mileage will be less than paying for any miles you go over on your contract. The 2014 should be out or out soon, so look at deals on 2013 models still on the lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gugny Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 I leased for 6 years (Hondas) and by the end of the second lease, I was fed up with having no real ownership. Now my wife and I are both driving used vehicles that we're buying. I miss leasing already. Check engine soon lights have come on both vehicles. With a lease, you have bumper-to-bumper coverage all the time. I miss that feeling of security. We'll likely buy one of the vehicles we're driving and wait to get right side up on the other and sell/trade in .... And lease one vehicle. The Hyundai will likely offer the lowest down payment and the lowest residual at the end of the lease. But the Toyota will have the best long-term resale value. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marv's Neighbor Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 Interest rates are low either way. As others have said, if you can get money from a Credit Union, that's likely your best option. I know our CU is giving 1.75 money for up to 72 months + $100 deposited into your CU Savings account. Pentagon Fed CU is 1.99 for 60 months. You can use them if you belong to AAA. Leases are not good if you drive a lot. Pay attention to the mileage caps. Also the residual values. Nissan, Toyota , Honda generally hold their value better than GM/Ford. So if you lease something that holds it's value, that usually translates into a lower payment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExiledInIllinois Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 (edited) Check engine soon lights have come on both vehicles. With a lease, you have bumper-to-bumper coverage all the time. I miss that feeling of security. Do you know what the code is reading? Take it to AutoZone or similar, they will read it for free. You can also get a cheap Bluetooth code reader (under 30 bucks... I got one being shipped from Amazon as we speak... For 10 bucks... OBDII reader) and download the app for your Android phone. Anyway, it may be just bad gas caps. Really, check the gas cap! Try rebooting the vehicle's computer by taking the negative cable off of the battery for a few seconds... See if the light comes back on. My wife's car check engine light comes on @ certain outside temps... It is a EGR valve (I think it is sticking, pulling the negative for a few seconds resets it). The EGR, which on her car is a real pain in the butt to access... Anway, if I don't feel like pulling the negative, I throw a can of Sea Foam in the tank and the light goes off... The light will then stay off for a bunch of weeks. The simple code/phone reader will also have a reset feature. Be aware after reset, the car may have to be driven a while and the light not come on again in order to pass any state emission testing requirements. ?? Can't hurt... Anyway, read the code and see what it has going on... Good luck Edited November 12, 2013 by ExiledInIllinois Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Jack Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 But the Toyota will have the best long-term resale value. Nissan, Toyota , Honda generally hold their value better than GM/Ford. So if you lease something that holds it's value, that usually translates into a lower payment. In regards to the Toyota RAV4, that is one reason I choose it. A friend of mine is on his second lease of a RAV4, the first one the dealer took it back a year early becuase there was such a demand for used ones, and there was no charge to him. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gugny Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 Do you know what the code is reading? Take it to AutoZone or similar, they will read it for free. You can also get a cheap Bluetooth code reader (under 30 bucks... I got one being shipped from Amazon as we speak... For 10 bucks... OBDII reader) and download the app for your Android phone. Anyway, it may be just bad gas caps. Really, check the gas cap! Try rebooting the vehicle's computer by taking the negative cable off of the battery for a few seconds... See if the light comes back on. My wife's car check engine light comes on @ certain outside temps... It is a EGR valve (I think it is sticking, pulling the negative for a few seconds resets it). The EGR, which on her car is a real pain in the butt to access... Anway, if I don't feel like pulling the negative, I throw a can of Sea Foam in the tank and the light goes off... The light will then stay off for a bunch of weeks. The simple code/phone reader will also have a reset feature. Be aware after reset, the car may have to be driven a while and the light not come on again in order to pass any state emission testing requirements. ?? Can't hurt... Anyway, read the code and see what it has going on... Good luck You had to ask, didn't you!!!!!!!!!!!!! My wife drives a BMW X-5. The service engine soon light came on and it was idling a little roughly, so we took it to Autozone to get the codes. They recommended that we purchase a Mass Air Flow Sensor, because the two codes it was throwing indicated that was likely the problem. I did some research on my own and found that it could be a small list of problems causing the codes, one of which being the MAFS -- but that was also the most expensive fix. I took it to a local guy who has a good reputation for servicing foreign automobiles. After about 20 minutes he told me I was all set. Showed me the list of codes he got from his more thorough diagnostic test ... it threw about 8 different codes. There was a vacuum leak somewhere, but all the hoses checked out fine. One thing about the X5 my wife drives (the 3.0 engine) is that it likes its oil. You only need to do an oil change about every 10K miles ... but you need to add a quart every couple months or so. I showed her how to add the oil, just in case I wasn't around. She added some oil the day before the SOS light came on. The cap wasn't lined up properly, making the sensors believe there was a vacuum leak somewhere (actually, with the cap ajar, there technically was a compromise. So I paid a guy $100 to unscrew, then screw back on, our oil cap. As far as the Jeep, there's a little trick you can do to get codes yourself. You turn the key till the car is "on" but not turning the engine over. Then back. Then on. Then back. Then on (a 3rd time) and leave it there. The codes will then appear on the odometer screen. A quick search on the Internet and you have your problem. Mine is the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). I went and bought one for $30, but haven't replaced it. There are no symptoms. I talked to my mechanic and he said he'd swap it out for $25, but I'm fine waiting until it starts acting funny. So I'm waiting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wooderson Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 Hey guys, I'm sure this has been covered before, but I don't think I've seen it recently: Need a new (to me) vehicle. Was really hoping to wait until my other vehicle was paid off (about 20 months). Really would like to keep my payment as low as possible, therefore was thinking either going used or leasing as I always see "incredible" deals in the Sunday newspaper. Discuss.... Looked at Toyota RAV4's but thinking that will be out of my league price-wise. Also interested in the Nissan Rogue and Hyundai Tucson. Discuss.... Thanks in advance! RB I like leasing. My parents gave me their old van years ago and when I graduated from college I went to Toyota and looked at the Camry's. They gave me 4,000$ for my used van, also a 1,000$ rebate for graduating from college so my first three years of payments were $139.99. I couldn't pass that up right out of college for a brand new Camry. I'm currently on my second lease, with another Camry and I've loved both cars. Payments have gone up the second time around but $255.00 a month still isn't bad. I like not having the headache of worrying about repairs, oil changes, etc. The mileage would be the only thing that might concern someone, but I don't go anywhere near my limit so I'm fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DDD Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 Unless you can get a tax deduction, it makes no sense to lease IMO. I've always bought Toyota or Hondas that are 2-4 years old. They still cost alot but are reliable and when the loan is paid off you still have a reliable car to drive or get money for a trade in. I occasionally have to make a repair or change tires but it beats a monthly car payment. I'm way ahead of the game. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpberr Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 If you do a lot of driving or your vehicles take their share of abuse and are exposed to the elements 24/7, you may want to purchase. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Jack Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 So I paid a guy $100 to unscrew, then screw back on, our oil cap. No, you paid him $2 to unscrew/screw the cap, and $98 for knowing what it was. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DDD Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 No, you paid him $2 to unscrew/screw the cap, and $98 for knowing what it was. You must be a mechanic or related to Mr. Goodwrench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gugny Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 No, you paid him $2 to unscrew/screw the cap, and $98 for knowing what it was. I am a frugal SOB ... and even I could laugh at that and was pretty thankful it wasn't the big ticket item I thought it was gonna be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExiledInIllinois Posted November 13, 2013 Share Posted November 13, 2013 (edited) You had to ask, didn't you!!!!!!!!!!!!! My wife drives a BMW X-5. The service engine soon light came on and it was idling a little roughly, so we took it to Autozone to get the codes. They recommended that we purchase a Mass Air Flow Sensor, because the two codes it was throwing indicated that was likely the problem. I did some research on my own and found that it could be a small list of problems causing the codes, one of which being the MAFS -- but that was also the most expensive fix. I took it to a local guy who has a good reputation for servicing foreign automobiles. After about 20 minutes he told me I was all set. Showed me the list of codes he got from his more thorough diagnostic test ... it threw about 8 different codes. There was a vacuum leak somewhere, but all the hoses checked out fine. One thing about the X5 my wife drives (the 3.0 engine) is that it likes its oil. You only need to do an oil change about every 10K miles ... but you need to add a quart every couple months or so. I showed her how to add the oil, just in case I wasn't around. She added some oil the day before the SOS light came on. The cap wasn't lined up properly, making the sensors believe there was a vacuum leak somewhere (actually, with the cap ajar, there technically was a compromise. So I paid a guy $100 to unscrew, then screw back on, our oil cap. As far as the Jeep, there's a little trick you can do to get codes yourself. You turn the key till the car is "on" but not turning the engine over. Then back. Then on. Then back. Then on (a 3rd time) and leave it there. The codes will then appear on the odometer screen. A quick search on the Internet and you have your problem. Mine is the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). I went and bought one for $30, but haven't replaced it. There are no symptoms. I talked to my mechanic and he said he'd swap it out for $25, but I'm fine waiting until it starts acting funny. So I'm waiting. Cool! Sounds like you are in business! I wonder if the Jeep thing (I got an 2006 TJ) will work with my 2006 Chrysler... Both Chrysler products? One time the light came on my Jeep and I took it to Advance Auto to read it... The female asked me if I had the fuel cap on... I am like duh! Of course... She read the code and it came up "fuel cap"... I am like.. Huh... We both look 2 feet to the right and there is my fuel cap dangling around by thd tether... LoL... Wow! LoL... Oh... There has been a recall w/the 2005-2006 Jeep Wrangler's OBD port... Lifetime warranty now... If when turning on (not cranking)... Wait 10 seconds, the check engine light should not begin to flash... If it does, system can't be made ready and they will change it for free. Mine flashes, but I am not sure I want to take it in! w/emissions testing, I will wait till it fails before I will call Jeep in to fix it under warranty. The light hasn't come on outside of my fuel cap brain farts... So no problem passing emissions testing... I hope the system not being made ready will work i my favor as the vehicle gets older... If not, I can just have them change it! Edited November 13, 2013 by ExiledInIllinois Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Jack Posted November 13, 2013 Share Posted November 13, 2013 You must be a mechanic or related to Mr. Goodwrench. Nah, it's from an old joke about a guy questioning why he received a big bill for a quick fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Posted November 13, 2013 Share Posted November 13, 2013 I had a Pilot that needed some major work, so I decided to trade it in for a CR-V. It's 4WD but gets much better gas mileage than the Pilot. And my advice would be to buy, but get a year-end model. I bought a Odyssey in Febraury of 2001 and had to replace it this year, and got a year-end model in August. I paid virtually the exact same amount as I did 12 years ago! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPR4444 Posted November 13, 2013 Share Posted November 13, 2013 the new Jeep Cherokees look pretty sharp to me, but I'd like to wait until they have a bit of a track record before jumping on one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExiledInIllinois Posted November 14, 2013 Share Posted November 14, 2013 the new Jeep Cherokees look pretty sharp to me, but I'd like to wait until they have a bit of a track record before jumping on one. It is the same platform that the rest of the Jeeps are on (or have gone to). I think the Grand Cherokee was the first one to move to the "k" platform... Am I mistaken? Grand Cherokee moved from the WJ platform to the WK platform in 2005. I think all the Jeeps are on the "K" platform now w/the Wrangler moving from the TJ to JK in 2007. ?? The track record is there... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billsfanmiami(oh) Posted November 14, 2013 Share Posted November 14, 2013 the new Jeep Cherokees look pretty sharp to me, but I'd like to wait until they have a bit of a track record before jumping on one. My wife has a 2011 jeep grand Cherokee. First year of the "new" models. Absolutely love it so far. A few minor issues here and there, of course taken care of by the dealership. Thing rides great and has all the bells and whistles you can think of (overland trim). Lots of bang for your buck when compared to others in the same class. It's what steered us towards the jeep and away from a newer X5 which we had also liked a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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